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Rostock, aumentare la qualità (no replies)

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Hola...
Sto facendo qualche prova con una Rostock di dimensioni interessanti.
Dopo prove varie col pla nero sono passato all'ABS neutro, che mi ha subito dato risultati migliori.
Vorrei avere consigli su come migliorare la qualità di stampa, al momento gli oggetti "ci assomigliano" ma non sono lisci e precisi come molti di quelli che ho visto in giro.
Allego un paio di foto.
C'è l'ultimo layer che non mi sembra chiuso benissimo, gli spigoli dei piani completi che hanno un eccesso, le "colonnine" che non hanno spigoli definiti ma sono molto più tondeggianti dei layer pieni e come ultima cosa una cuvatura verso l'alto dove c'è lo spazio tra le due colonnine quando riprendono i layer completi. (mi sono spiegato? servono altre indicazioni?)

ps: il cubo è 25mm, la stampante usa filo da 1.75, ugello da 0.3, il letto e l'hotend mi sembrano andare decentemente e la meccanica non mi da grosse preoccupazioni ma forse sono io che la sottovaluto.

Best leadscrews for i3?? (1 reply)

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Hi all,
im looking to upgrade my i3 from standard m5 threaded to proper leadscrews but im having trouble finding which ones to use that will fit the X Ends and a supplier that doesnt charge a fortune for them ideally in the UK but anywhere will do. I'm also not sure whether or not to just get the leadscrew and use a flexible coupler to attach it or to get the motor with a built in leadscrew shaft, im not sure if there would be any benefit of choosing one over the other?

Does anyone know which i should get and which suppliers are good? is anyone currently using proper leadscrews on their i3? have they improved the print quality?

Kind regards

Dove trovare il disegno per il corpo peek (2 replies)

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Ciao per cortesia avrei bisogno di conoscere il link o dove trovare i disegni di questo tubetto di Peek. Sulla pagina del jhead non ho trovato nulla su questo particolare disegno, suggerimenti oppure qualcuno lo ha già trovato?

Thanks :-)

Problemas por aplicación de demasiado material en algunas partes (10 replies)

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Estimados, recurro a ustedes para solicitar ayuda por un problema que ya me tiene trastornado.
Cuando pongo a imprimir piezas, la máquina me hace los perímetros perfectos, pero en las partes que tiene que hacer infill solido como en las capas sólidas, independientemente del infill density que le ponga, pone mas material del necesario, en consecuencia, hace capas mas altas que los perímetros verticales.
El resultado es que capa tras capa, el pico del hotend, se va clavando adentro de esas partes. Además, cuando hace travel por sobre esas partes, el hotend golpea alli y pierde pasos, además de dejar un surco por donde pasó.
Ya descarte un problema de pasos o avance del eje z, porque los perímetros los hace perfectos. Si pruebo a hacer una pieza con infill 100%, lo mismo me pasa en donde rellena completamente.
si le bajo el infill a 95 o 90, el problema me lo hace solo en las capas solidas
Descarte tambien un problema de pasos en el extrusor porque en los perímetros no se para de material.
Probé jugar con el ancho del nozzle y con el ancho del trazo y lo mismo pasa
Ya no se que mas hacer.
Cuando el hotend se clava tanto que ya golpea y solo pasa porque los resortes de la cama trabajan y permiten bajar la pieza, paro la impresión y al correr el hotend, se ve en la pieza como queda clavado porque la pieza está mas alta de lo que está el pico.
Ahi va una foto para que vean el efecto. Es más, en esa pieza metió tanto material que fue desplazando los perímetros hacia afuera. Por eso se ve la pieza en la parte superior como ensanchada con la consiguiente deformación de los perímetros los cuales, en capas mas bajas estaban perfectos
Ayuda



Profilé alu (3 replies)

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Bonjour à tous je cherche des profilés ALU 20*20 avec des rainures pouvant accueillir des écrous normaux type M4 ou M5 . Si possible en France merci d'avance

RRD Fan Extender [RISOLTO] (1 reply)

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Buondì,
mi è appena arrivato il modulino per le ventole aggiuntive, sto leggendo in giro come montarlo e dal punto di vista hardware mi sembra abbastanza elementare.
Il problema è il lato software... devo modificare il firmware o dopo averlo montato si attiva da solo? per comandare accensione e spegnimento delle ventole come funziona poi?

Grazie delle risposto, io intanto continuo a cercare qualche info a riguardo.

RDW

reMakibox (no replies)

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Here is my printer using bits and pieces from the failed makibox project. I use 20x20mm and 40x20mm t-slot extrusions for the frame and printed pla sliders as bearings. Linear motion is via the makibox lead screw on z and rack and pinions on x and y. So far, z and y work (no limit switches yet), and i´m working on the moving build platform.

[attachment 34741 IMG_20140606_114231.jpg]

pieces qui rebiquent (3 replies)

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Bonjour,

J'ai un souci avec ma prusa i3. Les surplombs, durant l'impression, rebiquent vers le haut et font que forcement la buse accroche. Ce n'est pas au niveau du bed,
mais plus tard durant l'impression, pour les couches superieures.

Est ce que le souci peut etre reglé par un ventilo d'impression, ou c'est une question de temperature d'extrusion ? (PLA a 200°C)
Ou c'est inevitable avec une machine ouverte ?

Merci !!

Surplombs qui rebiquent (1 reply)

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Bonjour,

J'ai un souci avec ma prusa i3. Les surplombs, durant l'impression, rebiquent vers le haut et font que forcement la buse accroche. Ce n'est pas au niveau du bed,
mais plus tard durant l'impression, pour les couches superieures.

Est ce que le souci peut etre reglé par un ventilo d'impression, ou c'est une question de temperature d'extrusion ? (PLA a 200°C)
Ou c'est inevitable avec une machine ouverte ?

Merci !!

sinterizzazione open source (1 reply)

Solvente PLA (2 replies)

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Innanzitutto mi scuso se ho sbagliato sezione... non sapevo se metterlo qui in materiali o in discussioni generali.

Come tutti saprete ormai, chi stampa in ABS ha la possibilità, tramite vapori o bagni in acetone, di rendere più omogeneo e più lucido il pezzo prodotto (a volte a scapito dei dettagli più piccoli).

Quello che vorrei è sapere se qualcuno ha avuto delle esperienze dirette con i vari sistemi sperimentati per ottenere la stessa cosa con il pla.
Il PLA ha molti vantaggi: è atossico (diciamo meno tossico dell'ABS), ha colori più brillanti, fonde a temperature minori, è meno sensibile agli sbalzi termici in fase di stampa... ma non esiste un metodo semplice per ottenere la stessa qualità superficiale ottenibile con ABS+acetone.

Ho letto di vari tipi di solventi (quasi sempre industriali e di difficile reperibilità) testati con il PLA, tra cui:

METHYL ETHYL KETONE (MEK)

TETRAIDROFURANO (THF)
[www.protoparadigm.com]

DICHLOROMETHANE (DCM)
[www.thingiverse.com]

ETHYL ACETATE (MEK Substitute)
[www.printedsolid.com]

DIMETILSOLFOSSIDO (DMSO)

ACIDO ACETICO/ ACETATO DI METILE / ACETATO DI AMILE

LIMONENE

SODA CAUSTICA (IDROSSIDO DI SODIO)
[forum.typeamachines.com]

qui una comparativa con alcuni solventi:
[www.stampalo3d.com]


Qualcuno ha avuto modo di provare uno di questi prodotti sul PLA? quali sono i risultati?
Io sono disposto a fare dei test, ma non posso certo provarli tutti!
Tra l'altro molti di questi solventi devono essere comprati online all'estero.

G code (no replies)

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Volevo sapere se esiste un g code per abassare il nozzle durante la stampa, dato che ho modificato al mia mendelmax 2 con autobed level ma ogni tanto l'altezza
tra nozzel e piatto mi cambia e dopo stampo male.
Sarà colpa del servo?
Grazie

Pusa I3 Largo varillas (no replies)

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Estimados,

Como están? Les comento que estoy por construir una Prusa I3 con marco de fibrofacil y quería saber las medidas de las varillas ya que en internet encuentro todas medidas diferentes.
Lo que mas me preocupa son las diferencias en el EJE Y ya que eso determina cuanto se mueve la cama caliente!!!!! (cuanto deberia poder moverse el eje Y?)
Les paso algunas opciones que encontré.

Opcion 1

Eje Y
4 Varillas rosacadas M8 de 180mm
2 varillas roscadas M10 de 492 mm
2 varillas lisas M10 de 470 mm

Eje z
2 varillas roscadas M5 de 390 mm
2 varillas lisas M8 de 420mm

Eje x
2 varillas lisas M8 de 495mm

Opción 2

Eje Y
4 Varillas rosacadas M8 de 205 mm
2 varillas roscadas M10 de 400 mm
2 varillas lisas M10 de 370 mm

Eje z
2 varillas roscadas M5 de 370 mm
2 varillas lisas M8 de 405mm

Eje x
2 varillas lisas M8 de 470mm



Por favor, si alguien me puede aclarar la duda del eje Y, se los agradezco!!!!!
Desde ya muchas Gracias,
Saludos,
Tomas

Näherungsschalter statt Schnappschalter als Endschalter? (7 replies)

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Hallo,

ich würde gerne mal wissen, was ihr von kapazitiven Näherungsschalter haltet?? Ich überlege diese anstatt die üblichen Schnappschalter wie z.B.: Marquardt 1050 einzubauen.

Würde mich mal interessieren was ihr davon haltet. Vielleicht hat ja schon jemand Erfahrung.

Gruß
Lasse2001

Repetier is not heating extruder? (no replies)

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Program was good on win7 for some time. I decided to play around with it. I was trying so configuring of skeinforge (comes with the host download along with slic3r) and I also installed Cura. I download pypy (didn't realize it came with Rep-host.) and ran the exe. Went back to repetier's slicer manager and for skeinforge I point the directories to where they had to point to (not that I needed to as the program knows the default locations for the skeinforge that came with it). Decided to go back to slic3r and when I run a job now in Rep-host the extruder does not get turned on. When I turn the extruder on in manual control, it works fine. I'm not seeing anything in the gcode any different than the last times I ran it fine. It's strange. I uninstalled it, made sure to delete the rep-host folder in programs, the slic3r folder in programsx86 and the rep-host folder in c:/users folder.

Heatbed Directly to PSU (3 replies)

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I have everything ready except my heatbed. When I tried last night to heat it through the onboard Sanguinololu (1.3a) heatbed connectors I gave myself a pretty nasty burn. I'm using ABS so I need the heatbed. I've seen online that you can hook the heatbed PCB directly to the PSU and it will regulate itself, can anyone confirm this or offer another method?

Using:
Prusa i2 w/Sprinter on Sanguinololu 1.3a.
30w PSU

Thanks

Error starting postprocessor during slicing issue... (no replies)

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Don't know what I'm doing wrong, but in the past everything went fine for many prints. Came home, girlfriend swears she didn't mess with it much after trying her own prints for the first time (she said she had problem connecting), but then I keep getting the following error:

Quote

Error starting postprocessor: System.ComponentModel.Win32Exception (0x80004005): The system cannot find the file specified at System.Diagnostics.Process.StartWithCreateProcess(ProcessStartInfostartinfo) at RepetierHost.view.SlicerPanel.Postprocess(String file).

I'm not sure she broke anything, but I also made sure that Slic3r was in the correct directory, Googled for solutions (which didn't quite make sense to me but I tried anyway). Thanks in advance.

Marlin Hilfe bei der Konfiguration (3 replies)

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Moin Leute :)-D

Ich bräuchte eure tatenkräftige Unterstützung bei der Einstellung meiner Firmware.
Kurze Eckdaten zu meinem Drucker:


- Mendel Prusa i2 mit einem Extruder, Z-Achse mit M8 Gewindestangen, T2,5 Riemen
- Firmware: Marlin + Pronterface mit Slic3r
- Elektronik: Arduino Mega 2560 + Ramps 1.4 + Pololu A4988 + Nema 17 (Bipolar/52 N.cm/1.8 degree) + 2xTemperaturfühler NTC 100k + 3xEndtaster
- LCD: Marke Eigenbau (20x4 LCD screen, SD slot, encoder, beeper, reset button) wird im Prinzip genauso wie dieses hier
- Heizbett: MK2B gesteuert über ein Relais (SSR-25DD) + Alu oder Messingdruckplatte (beides vorhanden, muss nur bei Gelegenheit nochmal vernünftig abgefräst werden)
- Netzteil: ATX Netzteil 450 Watt
- Hotend: Direkt 1,75mm Marke Eigenbau nach Plänen von E3D, entweder v5 oder v6, wenn ich in der Firma mal Zeit habe geht’s ran an den Speck (:P)

Das Heizbett kann ich zurzeit noch nicht in Betrieb nehmen, da ich Dussel ein Relais DC/AC gekauft hatte und nun auf das richtige DC/DC warte (Lieferzeit von bis zu 5 Wochen (td))
Einseitig die Z-Achse und die Y-Achse kann ich schon teilweise über den PC steuern. Mehr noch nicht, da ich die Schnauze voll hatte die kleinen Mistfiecher von Dupont Stecker oder wie die sich auch immer Schimpfen zu löten und die anschließend in die Buchse rein zu prügeln nachdem ich die eine geschlagene Stunde mit einer Flachzange in Form gebracht habe, weil ich keine passende Crimpzange habe!
Jetzt hab ich mir gestern erstmal eine Crimpzange bestellt und dann geht’s die Tage mit den Anschlüssen der restlichen Motoren weiter.

Wobei mich bei einem Motor auch noch Arbeit erwartet. So neugierig wie ich bin, hab ich den demontiert und wollte mir mal ein genaues Bild von der Wicklung machen (Anfang/Ende, Wickelschritt, Drahtstärke, Nutzahl, etc.). Natürlich passiert mir das, was auf keinen Fall passieren DARF!!! Ich bewege den Spulenübergang mit einem Schlitz und KNACK!!! Draht ist durchgebrochen...so ne verfluchte SCHEIßE!!!
Neukaufen?! Nein, wieso?? Ich bin doch Elektromaschinbauer, nagut ich erlene es noch und bin in zwei Monaten im dritten Ausbildungsjahr (schimpft sich im Fachjagon übrigens Elektroniker für Maschinen und Antriebstechnik). Diese Entscheidung bereue ich immer noch. Habe verfluchte 5 Stunden gebraucht dieses kleine Scheißding auseinander zu reißen. Die Wicklung aufnehmen in Form eines Wickelbildes war schnell erledigt. Jetzt graust mich alleine die Vorstellung den Motor neu zu wickeln...


Egal, zurück zum Thema. (:P)
Ich hab echt NULLPLAN von der Konfiguration von Merlin. In allem Überfluss hat mich Englisch früher einen Dreck interessiert, was die Sache jetzt umso schwerer macht.
Wenn im Netzt eine gute Step by Step Anleitung gibt, Idealerweise auf Deutsch, dann her damit. Ich such mich dumm und dämlich und komm nicht vorwärts, sorry.



Was genau muss ich in der Konfig alles bearbeiten? Nur die "Configuration.h" oder die ganzen anderen auch? :S
Hier erstmal meine Configuration.h

*** EDIT: - die Datei wegen Überlänge als Anhang ...

[technique] Comment déterminer la bonne température de chauffe ? (no replies)

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Bonjour,
J'ai toujours des doutes si ma température de chauffe de ma tête d'impression est bien.
Aussi, j'ouvre ce post pour recueillir vos différentes techniques pour régler la température de chauffe optimum pour du PLA et de l'ABS.
Mon constat:
Les températures sont souvent indiquées  sur les bobines à titre indicatif mais entre la position de la sonde, sa qualité, la qualité de la tête d'impression,la qualité du fil on obtient en final une température (celle rentrée dans slic3r ou autre)qui n'a plus trop avoir avec la température recommandée au départ.

Quelle technique utilisez vous ?

Merci d'avance
Pascal

Heated build chamber patent limitation (2 replies)

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Hi,

We don't see a lot of 3d printer equipped with heating chamber because of stratasys patent limitation.

I looked into theses 3 patents
US6722872: [www.google.ca]
US7297304: [www.google.ca]
US20040104515: [www.google.ca]

Basically all independent claims refer to a "x-y-z gantry located external to the build chamber", "thermal separation between the heated build chamber and a gantry that controls motion"
And this one from US 7297304 B2 claim 14: " "the motion control components being located external to and in thermal isolation from the build chamber"

In my opinion stating claims like this is avoiding to patent a heated build chamber with the gantry inside. One reason could be that they could not claim it because of public prior art. It is said to have been an obvious common practice (need proof on this). The other reason that I can see is that there is another patent that I miss on this topic (expired or not).

Quote
US7297304 B2
Existing Stratasys FDM® machines build models in a chamber (also referred to as a build envelope or oven) heated to between 70° C. and 90° C. The base on which the model is built is located in the heated chamber, as are the extrusion head and the x-y-z gantry. Placing the extrusion head and the x-y-z gantry in this heated environment has many disadvantages. The x-y-z gantry is comprised of motion control components, such as motors, bearings, guide rods, belts and cables. Placing these motion control components inside the heated chamber minimizes the life of these components.

I doubt it is not possible to find stepper motor and belt with high operating temp.

Most important: What can legally limit commercial 3d printer to put the gantry inside?

It is unlikely that I am the only one that have noticed this point but I want to understand what we can do and what we cannot. I would like to close the heat chamber not only for greater print results, but also to prevent children from putting their fingers in there, also to catch toxic fumes and prevent dust from contaminating the print surface. I still want to use the heated bed for PLA and PVA. I am sure many of us would benefit from that.

Thank you for your help.
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