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New customers Get $150 off first order with Misumi (no replies)

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Hey guys, I know this has been in IRC, but I thought I would also post the promotion in For Sale as well. Just to be all official-like. :)

Here’ s the scoop on getting $150 off your first order (gotta be a new customer):
To receive the $150.00 Credit, companies must place their first order online using a Credit Card and include promotion code "First150--RepRap" in the "Special Instructions" of the order. Offer is based only on the value of the goods purchased; freight and handling charges are excluded. The full value of the $150.00 credit must be used on the first order, no promotional credit balance will carried forward. Offer expires March 31, 2014. Available in US and Canada only.
Contact me if you have questions: Comment here, or PM me. I am happy to answer questions and help out any way I can.
Contact Customer service: inquire@misumiusa.com
Contact Engineering: engineering@misumiusa.com

This promotion has been going on for a while, and I’ve put together some FAQs that can also help with questions. Our internal systems are not well connected, so there’s been some understandable confusion.
• Order confirmation emails – The discount will not show up on these. You will see the discount when your credit card is charged. The amount will be -$150 the total of your order.
• Shipping – If you selected Ground shipping and see an upgrade to 2nd Day airsaver, don’t worry. As a corporation, we negotiate discounts with our carriers, and automatically upgrade you to a better service for free when we can. We pass the discounts on to you. We’re not in the business of making money off of shipping. :-)
• Invoices – You still will not see the discount on your invoice. Rely on the amount we actually charge you -- again it will be -$150 the total of your order.
• Credit card charges – These should show up within 1-3 days of your order being shipped. Here’s where you will finally see the discount show up. The math should go like this: order amount - $150 + shipping= charged amount.

Slic3r... Out of Control bug list, time to get a clue... (5 replies)

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So here's my little copy and paste rant on using a competent slicer...
Have a quick glance at the Slic3r Forum... [forums.reprap.org]
Nothing more than a extensive bug list that goes on forever and grows with every new release of Slic3r.
I used to read this Slic3r blog daily, then I got a clue... You can't circumvent crappy slicing software by manipulating your slicer profiles, modifying your firmware or blaming your machine.

FYI... NOT sure why anybody is still using Slic3R beyond v7.02b (v7.02b is a great simple and competent slicer).

I sadly laugh when I see people trying to fix problems with this continual problematic slicer >Slic3R v7.02b.
I finally gave up after Slic3R v9.8; recouped my life, and no more wasted time and plastic, and moved forward away from Slic3R.

Also glad to be done with random artifacts/bumps/blobs/warts/overhangs scattered about my prints, yesh... enough is enough !
You can easily spot a user that is using Slic3r by viewing their unwanted identifying extras added to one's print. Typically garbage output from Slic3r.

Every new Slic3R upgrade version has a new set of unresolved problems. I tried EVERY Slic3R version v7.02b - v9.8 extensively and utilized every smart so called fix for the problems... result garbage can full of melted plastic, hundred of frustrating hours endured/wasted, and saw my life passing me by. I'M DONE, DONE, DONE and DONE with Slic3R !!!

I used Skeinforge v41-v50 as my primary slicer for the last 2 years, but it has an internal memory limit which restricts you from printing more than simple trinkets and objects.

Using KISSlicer... I found new capabilities and no limitations... Finally I can do what my intentions were when I bought my printer, to print close tolerance high quality functional engineering prototypes.

Since using KISSlicer over the last year... I can now print very complex and close tolerance engineering prototypes (0.1mm Layer Height @ +- 0.05mm tolerance for all dimensional shapes; except slightly undersized hole I.D.s) all day long everyday using KISSlicer, IMO it is the best slicer solution out there. NO more Slic3r wasting my time and memory limitations using Skeinforge, I have my life back now and time to do other things other than melt plastic in to useless shapes and fill the garbage can.

Note : KISSlicer is seemingly and sadly going defunct it appears, and is no longer maintained by it's creator/owner, but is still the best overall slicer ATM.
Download from here:
www.kisslicer.com

Information here:
- Kisslicer Refugee Camp - Google Groups
[groups.google.com]

_____________________

IMHO I think Slic3r developers, at this time need to put a halt to Slic3r as it is known, take what they have learned and create a ground-up new version, and stop patching/upgrading the garbage. Personally I think they try to fix a bug, and then create 10 more bugs from the bug they fixed. I appreciate their endeavors, but the world does not need another Microsoft Vista.

Stop Chasing Your Tail Around... ditch Slic3r... an Your Problems should be all be history now. :)-D

What blows up Pololus on RAMPS (3 replies)

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I have recently blown up a bunch of Pololu carriers (4988 chip) and was wondering if anybody knew what causes this. In each case a hole has been blown in the top of the chip - th whole sorry saga in the General thread under 24V woes, but it seems that it is not restricted to 24V. I have seen some mention of bad motor connections, but for 4 motors all at once?

Bulldog Lite Extruder Replacement fan? (5 replies)

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I have a RRD Bulldog Lite Extruder, I really like my extruder... but the fan ceased functioning. I need a replacement fan... For two weeks I've attempted to contact RRD through their ticket system and through their forum and through PM in this forum.... No luck... so I have to take to to the masses and see if anyone knows of a replacement fan that is available to replace the low profile blower fan that is used in the Bulldog extruders?

I do have open requests from RRD so I'll not start shooting my mouth off... when I orderd they shipped promptly and was reiculously well packed and the product was very high quality... I'd like to give them the opportunity for quality service after the sale. But my patience is wearing thin.


So if you know of a compatible blower fan, please let me know were to find one.

Thanks in advance,
Nate

First Build Advice? (2 replies)

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Hello everyone,

I know you guys have probably answered this question many times but I want to get a more up to date answer. What is the first printer a new repraper should build? And should one even build one?

I've been browsing around and did a lot of research on my first printer build. I've pretty much settled on the Mendel90 and buying the whole kit from Nophead. I was going to source my own parts but after seeing a 499 Euro price tag (with 60 euro shipping to USA [559 euros=766.67 USD at the moment]) I figured it was easier to just buy my parts from him.

I want to ask if I should make a Mendel90, or are there other printers under $800s (could be commercial) that are better? Also is it hard to put a Mendel90 together? Anything I absolutely need to watch out for? I am planning on working on it after school ends. So printers that aren't released now but will be then could also be possibilities. Like maybe the Buccaneer 3d printer, or the PeachyPrinter for commercial printers.

If recommending a printer better than the Mendel90 (in this $800 price range) it would be helpful if you could tell me some specs. Maybe in this format? Add more data if you feel it is important since that is all the specs I know so far.

Name:
Print Material:
Speed:
Source:
Resolution
Strengths:
Weaknesses:

-Razer0901

P.S. This is my first post so please bear with me. Also, sorry if this is in the wrong section.

@Nophead Could there be a Mendel90 v2 in the works? B)

DIY tech shop defective hotends (2 replies)

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Hi all,

I just wanted to relate my experience with these hot ends in case others run into the same things.

I got a Prusa I3xl kit from diytechshop back in Nov. 2013. Once it was all built the biggest problem was
the hot end would jam, but it wasn't just jammed it was fully blocked. I didn't really understand what
was happening just that very little plastic got extruded.

After doing lots of tests etc, I took apart the hotend. I found that the PTFE lining had a big bubble
in it. Inside the bubble was expanded plastic. So I figured I put something together wrong and I ordered
more PTFE tubing. I put the new PTFE inside, and the exact same thing happening.

Now mind you , this was a fully tightened brass piece on the hot end. So I measured the brass and plastic
pieced and found there was a considerable void even when the hot end was fully tightened. So I contacted
diytechshop, of course, anyone that's ordered from them know they don't respond and they stayed true to
form. I sent several emailsi (pretty much one a day for a week), then eventually they responded.

They sent me a whole new hot end which they pre-assembled. When I got it installed, low and behold the
exact same bubble appeared in the PTFE. So I took apart the new hot end, and a very similar void existed
in the new hot end. I emailed them back several times, eventually got a response, but they basically
refused to assist me further or acknowledge any sort of manufacturing problem existed.

Salve volevo condividere con voi la mia Prima spesa per costruire una PRUSA i3 (8 replies)

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salve a tutti cosa ne pensate della prima spesa fatta??
penso si capisca le cose acquistate
Da aggiungere anche un arduino Mega pagato 13.50€ (su ebay)

N.B. LA SPESA E STATA FATTA DA LEROY MERLIN
INSERISCO QUESTE INFORMAZIONI X KI VORREBBE INIZIARE A CREARNE UNA...
PENSO DI AVER FATTO UNA COSA BUONA(:P)

Anfängerfrage: Hilfe für Anschluss Bulldog Extruder an Sanguinololu (7 replies)

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Hallo zusammen,

ich habe mich heute hier im Forum angemeldet da ich seit kurzen stolzer Besitzer eines 3D Druckers bin. Nun benötige ich jedoch eure Hilfe. Ich habe eine Sanguinololu Platine an meinem Drucker. Laut Schaltplan habe ich alle Motoren angeschlossen diese hatten schön die Farben schwarz-grün-rot-blau wie auf meiner Schemazeichnung. Nun möchte ich jedoch noch den Bulldog Extruder anschliessen. Dieser hat jedoch folgende Farben: braun-rot-blau-gelb.
Kann mir jemand sagen welche Farben hier vom Bulldog Extruder auf den Anschluss der Farben schwarz-grün-rot-blau zuzuordnen sind? Vielen Dank im voraus für Eure Hilfe.

Desweiteren muss ich ja anschliessend in der Marlin Firmware eintragen das ich einen Bulldog Extruder habe, welche Werte muss ich da änder resp. Anpassen?

Danke im voraus für Euren Bescheid

3D z 2D obrázku (2 replies)

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Inkscape - Blender.Vše free. Vytvoření 3D objektu pár kliknutíma z obrázku.Teď si ještě postavit tu tiskárnu.




Výsledek jednoduchého renderu keltské runy.
[www.youtube.com]

Firmware question | simple question then test (no replies)

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I have an Azteeg X3
There either is a problem with the board for the z-axis pins, or an aspect of the firmware.

I do have 2 stepper on the Z axis, but for testing purposes I am using a single stepper motor. Any stepper I place on the Z axis from the board (single or dual - in parallel) at the most pulse. I can turn the pot up to 1.2 volts and still it just pulses...

Note on the parallel Z-axis steppers, I can place them in the Y-axis and everything works fine.

Back to the original question I had. I have been using Repetier Hosts (what a great little tool if you haven't seen this page yet - Repetier) for the board, everything works except for the Z-axis. I disassembled everything to test just for the steppers, removed LCD, heatbed, 2nd extruder...

The question: Do you think that this could be a firmware problem? I want to test an older version of marlin that I configured..


I am running out of options, and the only thing I can think of is that the board has a problem (easier to blame the board :) ).

Another thing that I was thinking is that there could be some option in the firmware selection to build your custom settings from Repetier Host that I am not aware of that can debunk an aspect of the board... Just guessing at this point what could be going wrong.

The Future? Fishing Line Muscles (1 reply)

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The Ultra-Strong Robotic Muscles of the Future Could Be Made From Fishing Line
This could make 3d printers motor-less. Cool stuff.
smithsonian.com

Pronterface / Slic3r Issue: Help!! (1 reply)

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Dear Makers,

I have recently learned on the difference between Pronterface and Slic3r from the generous people in this forum. I understand that you need to modify the g.code file in order to have set temperatures for the filament and the beg.


Problem: When I load the g.code to Pronterface from Slice3r, the settings for the ABS heater default to 0 Degrees, where as the bed temp stays correct.
LCD Shows: 21/0 for extruder and 56/110 for bed. The bed temp slowly increases but the extruder does not.


Has anyone experienced this issue before? If so, what is the fix or am I doing something wrong?

Sincerely,

Janski

Printing ABS Temp Issue: Please Help !!! (4 replies)

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Dear Makers,

I have recently learned the difference between Pronterface and Slic3r from the generous people in this forum. I understand that you need to modify the g.code file in order to have set temperatures for the filament and the beg.


Problem: When I load the g.code to Pronterface from Slice3r, the settings for the ABS heater default to 0 Degrees( even though I set the ABS settings in Slic3r), where as the bed temp stays correct.
LCD Shows: 21/0 for extruder and 56/110 for bed. The bed temp slowly increases but the extruder does not.


Has anyone experienced this issue before? If so, what is the fix or am I doing something wrong?

By default pronterfacer will keep the temp at 200/200 and bed 0/0. I am looking to ensure I can print ABS 230/230 and bed 110/110.

Sincerely,

Janski

Support settings in SF (no replies)

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I'm trying to understand how "Support" works in SF, could anyone help?

What I was trying to print...

A phone case with a curved back (please see "Case" image), the curve was very gentle and started about 5mm in from the edges.


My problems in the pictures attached...

The support started to far from the perimeter, it needed to start right next to it for the second layer to sit on and the curve to start forming

The support was too dense and hard to remove

The support printed to the same height as the model, even though it only needed to print to the height of the curve


Any help on how I can correct these issues and the best settings for "Support" in SF would be great.

Thanks

Motors wont turn same old same old (1 reply)

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Ok so I have been working on building a 3d printer for the past few weeks, I have finally finished off all of the hardware and am working on getting the electronics to work correctly... like getting the motors to move. So here is my problem I hook my x axis motor into its driver and tell it to jump a little but it doesnt move at all (I took the belt off so there is no resistance on the shaft, and the pot on the driver is set to around 0.5v) instead it just makes a hum, so if I put my hand on the motor shaft and turned a little while I tell it to jump it will jump with assistance. So I figured okay maybe it needs more power same thing happens except it needs a little less effort to move. I then figured it would be easier to debug the motor if I put it on the extruder driver. Set it to extrude for awhile in printrun and the motor will move slowly. So I decided to change the value of mm/min and the motor speed was the same. I put the belt back on and it wouldnt move the carriage which I figured so I decided why not and upped the voltage on the pot but no movement just an assortment of noises and everything got really hot so I just it off. I dont think it can be a power problem because when the motor is activated you cant move it atall just when you tell it to jump. So I'm not sure whats wrong, if any of you reprap sages care to lend a hand I'll be very appreciative.

Prusa i3 build, help needed! (3 replies)

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Hi everyone,
I recently finished the mechanical build of my prusa however I seem to have hit a brick wall with the electronics!
photo 1
photo 4
When attempting to jog axis small amounts the stepper motors usually judder however when trying to move large distances i usually get nothing but whining.
I've calculated the steps per mm using Josef Prusas calculator as well as trying the cooking hacks firmware, i've tripple checked the pots on the stepper motor driver's (All read 0.4v which i believe is correct?) and swapped them all around aswell as rewiring it several times. If anyone has any suggestions at all they would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks Oliver

Should z-axis speed be affected by over all travel speed setting? (no replies)

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My z-axis travel speed is too fast in my opinion, but x and y axis travel speed too slow. But if I just change the "travel speed" variable in the slicer, all three speeds will be affected. Is that normal?

Продам комплект для сборки Prusa i3 (no replies)

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KIT для сборки 3D принтера Prusa i3
В комплект входят:
1. Рама из фанеры.
2. Шпильки (10мм, 8мм, 5мм)
3. Направляющие из нержавейки
4. Моторы 1.7А 5шт
5. Контроллер, драйверы моторов, концевые выключатели
6. HotEnd с нагревателем и термодатчиком в сборе, подающий болт
7. Полный комплект пластиковых деталей
8. Подшипники 608 4шт, 624 1шт, линейные подшипники 10шт.
9. Блок питания 12В 30А
10. Плата горячего стола, терморезистор, стекло покрытое каптоном.
11. Ремень 2.5Т, 2 шпульки под него.
Отправка по России.

[www.avito.ru]

Или продам принтер в собранном и настроеном виде.
email upgr@newmail.ru

3d printer without access to a 3d printer (2 replies)

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Hello RepRapers, I've encountered a problem which I seem to require assitance with.

So I've designed my own printer. I'm starting off big in more ways than one. This printer is the first I've ever owned. I've bought myself RAMPS, as well as a j-head hotend which I have mostly assembled (Kapton tape is hard to come by, but I heard muffler cement works for the Thermistor and the Heater, but I'm not sure) and Nema 17s. Anyway the printer I've designed has a steel chassis and a 30x60x30 cm print area. Talk about starting off big. But I've lost access to the printer I planned to build the peices on. So my current goal is to get it working using duct-tape, hot glue, and hope, long enough to print out new peices for itself.

I've got most of it worked out, but my current problem is I need to make a bowden extruder using as little as possible. I can easily make most of it out of wood, but when it comes to the extruder I'm coming up blank. Wood seems to be the ideal material *Shudders at the thought of subtractive manufacturing* but I'm not sure how you would make the extruder work. If anyone has any ideas that would be fantastic, I've scanned the internet to the best of my ability and am coming up blank.

- Coatduck

Short circuit IR sensor (1 reply)

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Watch the clips on the side, they can short-circuit the IR sensor and then it ended of the Duet, It has no protection from this kind of accident.

My Duet just died :(
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